Can't Afford a Tuscan Estate? Adopt an Olive Tree Instead

Abandoned groves are being revitalized by consumers who sponsor trees and get a liter of liquid gold in return

Nearly 25 years ago — when becoming a food writer was still a dream — my extrovert sister dragged me to a book party for Patricia Wells, the famed Paris-based food journalist. I nervously approached her to sign my copy of The Paris Cookbook, and then blurted out: But how did you do this? How do you live in France and have a vineyard? I will never forget her answer. She took my hand and said: “Jane, I’m just a girl from Wisconsin. Someday you’ll have a vineyard too.” She wrote the same thing in my book. It made my heart soar.

I still do not have a vineyard. But after reporting a story for The New York Times published last week, I’m thinking a few olive trees might be in my future. The story, They’re Rescuing Olive Trees for More than the Oil, highlights the crisis of abandoned groves in olive-growing regions, from Italy to California. In Italy alone, an estimated 440 million trees are abandoned. Across the Mediterranean, some 5 billion trees are at risk.

The movement to revitalize abandoned groves took off around 2010, and it picked up during the pandemic when many people sought out more meaningful work (and the opportunity to do it outside). For some, bringing olive groves back to life was a way to rebuild rural communities. For some, it was an opportunity to protect cultural and culinary heritage. Others wanted to stem the environmental consequences of losing the trees, which sequester carbon and help to maintain biodiversity.

For the story, I spoke to producers in California, Spain, and Italy. Each of them deserved an article of their own. Take Fil Bucchino, founder of Abandoned Grove, which has put more than 5,000 trees back into production within the city limits of Florence. Born in Italy, he spent most of his life in Canada. His first career was as bass player in a punk rock band, Flashlight Brown. But on a trip back to Italy in the early aughts, he tasted a freshly pressed oil that changed his life. Soon, he was taking olive-oil tasting courses, then he learned to mill. He now serves as a professional taster and judge in Italy and produced a great, short documentary, “Obsessed with Olive Oil.”

The transition from music to olive oil isn’t as much of a shift as you might think, Bucchino told me. “Punk rock was about people, attitude, community, integrity, positivity, and taking a stand for or against something. Real extra virgin olive oil is the same. It’s not a commodity; it’s fueled by passion first, like any art form. These kinds of oils deserve their own genre.”

Like many of the other revitalization projects, Abandoned Grove has a broad mission: to protect biodiversity (Tuscany alone has 80 varieties of olives; Italy more than 700) and to employ socially disadvantaged workers. But, for Bucchino, taste is most important: “I don’t believe I can get people to give a crap about olive trees being abandoned if the oil isn’t incredible,” he said.

The Balatro Abandoned Grove in Florence (Courtesy of The New York Times)

To fund their work, Abandoned Grove and other similar projects invite consumers to adopt or sponsor an olive tree (or two or 10.) Many programs let you choose a specific tree, and even name it. For every tree you sponsor, you receive a liter of olive oil — the average amount of oil a tree produces.

It’s not quite the same as having your own olive grove — or vineyard, for that matter. I still yearn for one! But it’s a heck of a lot easier, and cheaper, and it supports important work. Olive oil from this year’s harvest has already been pressed and will likely ship soon, which makes this a great time to sign yourself up or give a tree as a fun holiday gift.

Where to Adopt An Olive Tree

Le Olivastre: I love this community project run by three women in the village of Passignano Sul Trasimeno in Umbria. So far, they’ve adopted 800 trees and used the effort as a foundation to build other culinary businesses in the area, including a food truck that serves “olive oil” cuisine. €30 ($35) per tree. Donors receive 1 liter of oil per year.

Ager Oliva: Based in Tuscany, Ager Oliva is run by Tommaso Dami, who grew up hearing two things: That growing olives was the best job in the world – and not a great business. His orchards, one of which is in Da Vinci (yep, home to the famous polymath), are working to sustain biodiversity and carbon sequestration. His nonprofit is working with corporations to expand and scale his work. You can adopt a tree for €59 ($68) and receive 1 liter of oil per year, or buy individual bottles.

Abandoned Grove: Bucchino’s club membership, launched this summer, is the most expensive of the bunch. You can join with a $35 “root” membership which gives you access to purchase oil, including his ultra-high-end Founders Reserve. Or you can purchase a “tree” membership for $140, which delivers you 1 liter of the highest quality oil airshipped to the U.S. for maximum freshness.

Apadrina Un Olivo: Halfway between Madrid and Barcelona, the village of Oliete has suffered from what the Spanish call “L’España Vaciada,” or “the emptying countryside.” Apadrina began reviving groves to create jobs and draw new residents. Last year alone, 90 people moved there, enough to save the local school from closure. €60 ($70) per tree via the Apadrina website. Donors receive 1 liter of oil per year. Chef Katie Button, of Cúrate in Asheville, also sells subscriptions through her website.